Process of producing fur-bearing sheets used in the manufacture of garments and garment trimmings



Aug. 2 1927.

. H. WAssl-:RMAN E PROCESS OF PRODUCING FUR BEARING SHEETS USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF GARMENTS AND GARMENT TRIMMINGS Filed April 2, 1927 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Aug. 2, 1927.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HYIE WASSEBMAN, F BROKLYN, NEW YORK.

PROCESS 0F PRODUCIN'G FUR-BEARING SHEETS 'USED 1N THE HANUFACTURE 0l' GLB- -HEN'IS AND GABMENT TEIHMINGS.

Applicationled April?, 1937. Serial No.`l80,604.

This invention relates to fur garments and fur trimmings used in connection with cloth coats and dresses, and particularly to a process employed in reinforcing the pelts utilized in the production of such garments and the seams joining the pelts.

In producing fur coats, capes and similar garments heretofore the pelts after being tanned, plucked and otherwise treated were subsequently dyed, trimmed and fastened 'together in a composite piece which was subsequently shaped by cutting to form the pattern for the body of the garment. The sleeves, collar and other trimmings were made up in a similar manner.

It has been determined in practice that pelts so treated are materially weakened and to such an extent in some instances that they will hardly bear stretching. The dyes eventually work into the hide and rot the same to such an extent that it tears very readily, particularly at the seams where it is joined to other pelts and at the seams in the body of the hide made necessary bythe removal of defective portions. Rabbit skins which are largely used at the present time to produce a fur called sealine, beaverette, etc., is so weak that it becomes torn with the slightest strain' and garments sold one day are liable to be returned for repairs within the week. Frequently a retailer or manufacturer in order to retain the customer is compelled to spend so much time and use so much additional-material'in making necessary repairs that his profit is turned into 'an actual loss. This is true regarding trimmings of various char acters used upon cloth coats and other wearing apparel.

Heretofore some attempt has been' made 40 to reinforce the pelts and at the present coats are made up with a stay lining stitched to the pelts at its margin and at intermediate points'by what is commonly known as blind stitching, that is a stitching which penetrates the hide but is not visible from the fur side. This method, however, does not by any meansprotect the pelts against tearing, and particularly has no effect in preventing separation at the seams where the pelts are greatly weakened by numerous needle perforations.

, It is therefore the object ofthis invention to provide a means for reinforcing not reinforcing fabric in such manner that moisture will have'no effect in distorting the outline and form of the garment so that its shape and style is retained and its 'size remains unaltered.

As previously stated, garments constructfed at the present day, the stay lining is attached to the pelts at intervals by blind stitching and as these pelts are all stretched before being made up into a garment this interval attachment has no effect whatever in preventing shrinking when the garment is subjected to moisture. It is, therefore, another object of this invention to apply a reinforcing fabric to each and every part of the garment and at the same time when the pelts thereof are in fully stretched condition, the attachment being such that the garment itself and the individual pelts thereof are effectively held against shrinking. Such a constructed'garment maintains its shape and size and all pelts arereinforced against even abnormal strains.

A still further object of the invention is to connect to the pelts forming 'the garment a reinforcing element by a cement carrying into the pelt a chemical element calculated to prevent the ravages of moths, the cement being of such character as to artially impregnate the hide and the rein orcing element and thereby effectively join them together.

'Still another object of the invention is the construction of a fur garment or a fur trimming piece of any character having a lining and in attaching such lining directly to a reinforcing element joined to the hide and at the same time attaching such liningto the hide.

Further objects of the invention will appear as the following specific description is read in connection with the accompanying drawings'which form a part of this application, and in which:

Fig. 1 is a plan view showing not only how the respective -pelts are connected together to form a sheet for garment making purposes, but also the method employed in connecting the reinforcing fabric to such fur sheet.

Fig. 2 is an enlarged detail sectional view showing the sheet of material after the reinforcing fabric and body lining have'been applied. Fig. 3 is a perspective view of a coat disclosing my invention and with the reinforc- ;ing backing and body lining turned back to illustrate their respective positions. l

Fig. 4 is an enlarged detail sectional view taken through the collar of the coat, and

Fig. 5 is a plan view of a trimming piece such as a collar or cuff to be utilized on a cloth coat or skirt band.

For the urpose of generally illustrating the method)v of vbuilding fur sheets from which -various types of fur garments or trimming pieces are constructed, I have shown in Fig. 1 a fur sheet generally indicated by the character l. This fur sheet is constructed of a plurality of pelts 2 which have been previously treated by tanning, dyeing, etc., and by cutting out those portions of the pelt which are defective or which are of improper form to connect with adjoining pelts. In the lower right hand cor ner of this sheet, I have shown apelt Jwith a defective portion removed from the center and the two marginal edges ofthe opening .thus formed have been brought together and Joined 35 by stitching indicated at 3. A plurality' of pelts bearing a more or less close resemblance to the pelt 2 are joined together as shown by stitching 3 and the whole sheet laid upon a board similar to the board 4 where they are all moistened and stretched to'their fullest capacity. When so stretched, they are nailed upon the board by nails similar to those shown at p5, but placed at more frequent in tervals and in this condition the sheet isallowed to dry.

When all of the pelts are fully dried the sheet is removed from the board and placed on the board l where it is held by nails 5 in position ready to receive the reinforcing backing. The nails 5 are preferably driven into the board at widely separated intervals Y and then bent downwardly as shown in Fig.

1 so that their heads are positioned beyond the.

margin ef the sheet and can readily be removed as will be understood after the backing sheet has been applied.

I next apply to a small portlon of the-sheet avcoatin of the cement which I employ to join theacking sheet to the pelts and place upon this wet cement one marginal edge of the backing sheet which I have indicated at 6 with the remainder of the backing sheet folded back upon itself as shown in Fig. 1. The sheet is then gradually forced over the cemented surface either by hand, by

brushing or rolling or in any other suitable` manner and with sufficient pressure to 4insure a partial impregnation of the hide and fabric with the cement. After the cemented portion of the sheet 1 'has been completely covered with the reinforcing fabric another portion is similarly covered with cement and the fabric forcedover this portion in a like manner. Thus the operation is continued until the entire sheet 1 has been covered with the reinforcing sheet 6.

Any type of flexible reinforcing element may be employed but I preferably employ va rubber coated or rubber impregnated sheet and where a rubber coated sheet is employed this coating face is placed downwardly on the pelts so that it is brought into intimate cont-act with the cement employed for joining the sheets 1 and 6.

While almost any type of fiuid cement may be employed for the purpose of joining the sheets 1 and 6, I preferably employ a cement similar to the ordinary rubber cement which maintains its flexibility after drying and, consequently, permits flexing of the garment without cracking. The specific cement which I employ carries as one of its constituents a moth proofing chemical which may be either the solvent or some additional element calculated to impregnate the hide and make cal of this nature may be employed, but I preferably use oil of turpentine which is thoroughly incorporated in the cement and when ap lied or brought into contact with 4 the garment moth proof. Almost any chemithe pelt lmpregnates the hide and prevents moths from vattacing the fur. In addition to this, oil of turpentine has the added feature of increasing the flexibility of the hide and to a certain extent strengthens the same.

After the sheet 1 of connected pelts has been reinforced in the manner thus described, it 1s removed from the board and cut by patterns into the form desired for the making of any particular garment. I have shown to illustrate the application of my invention, a ladys coat in which 7 indicates the body, 8 the collar, 9 the sleeves, and 10 what I have designated as a body lining and in which in ladies coats is usually silk or satin, generally of an ornamental nature. While I have not 4 the reinforced fur pelts, it is faced in the usual manner (the facing on one side of the garment being turned back, as indicated at 11, to illustrate the connection of the reinforcing fabric with the elts and the lining l() with the facing) the llning 10 is attached to the facing by any suitable form of stitching and is also attached by hand stitching 12 to the reinforcing fabric and also to the 1,637, aan

pelt itself as shownin Fig. 2. The enlarged section of Fi 2 shows 1n detail how each stitch forme is caused to pass not only through the lining 10 and t e reinforcing fabric 6, but also through a portion of the pelt itself. However, this lining 10 is free of the reinforcing fabric except along the lines of stitching and at the points where it is joined to the facing. As these lines of stitching may extend in any direction across the garment, I have not attem ted to illustrate their position in Fig. 3, ut it will of course be understood that in making up the garment the tailor will use his own discretion as is now done with the present form of garment, in connecting the body lining to the stay lining.

Trimming pieces such as collars, cuffs, skirt and coatfbands and the like may be made up in a manner similar to that just described and either lined or sold to trimmers or retailers Without lining. Each piece of trimming may be made up of a single skin or aplurality of pe'lts as shown in Fig. 5, and Where a plurality of pelts are used they are stitched together in the maner shown in Fig. 1 and then the entire piece has cemented to it a reinforcing fabrlc similar to that shown at 6. I havegenerally illustrated a trim piece in Fig. 5, and it will be readily understood that this ma serve either' as a collar, cud or the like epending upon the size desired.

In some instances such as here a perforated reinforcin sheet is employed, it may be found desira le to lay the reinforcing sheet upon a board and gradually cement to it the pelt sheet, but in the majority of instances, I find that it is better to lay the pe'lt sheet upon the board with the hide side up and gradually cement the reinforcing sheet thereto in the manner described.

Attaching a reinforcing sheet to the pelt sheet in the manner -described While it is in stretched and dried condition reinforces not only the joined seams of the respective pelts but also reinforces and protects all parts of each pe'lt, and Where the reinforcing fabric employed is of a water-proof character and the cement carries Water-proof qualities, the entire garment is unaffected by moisture and therefore does not loose its shape and size when Worn under the Inost adverse Weather conditions. Furthermore,

in attaching all trimming parts such as collars and cuffs, they are -stitched through the reinforcing element and through the pelts instead of just to the pelts as 1s commonly the practice, and thus a strong connection is assured.

I have shown in Fig. 4 a collar 13 constructed in the manner of a trim strip and joined to the upper portion of the body of the coat in the usual manner by stitching kwhich extends through the reinforcing fabric and pelts as shown at 14. This seam is covered as will be seen from an inspection of Fig. 4 by the body lining 10.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim is:

1. The process of producing a fur bearing sheet for use in the manufacture of, garments or parts thereof, which consists in removing the majority of stretch from a pelt o r pelts forming said sheet and attaching to every portion of the hide side of said pelt or pelts While stretched and vdry a flexible substantially non-stretchable reinforcing element by means of a cement which is as flexible as the pelt or pelts and element when dried.4

2. The process of producing4 a fur bearing sheet for use in the manufacture of garments or parts thereof, which consists in stretching a pelt or pelts While Wet, drying said pelt or pelts While in stretched condition and attachin to said pelt or pelts While dry a flexible su stantially non-stretchable reinforcing element by the interposition of a flexible cement serving to join each and every part of said element With each and every part of the pelt or pelts.

3. The process of producing a fur bearing` sheet for use in the manufacture of garments or parts thereof, which consists in stretching, While in a Wet condition, a sheet constructed of a plurality of pelts stitched together, maintaining said sheet in stretched condition until dry, applying to such sheet While dry a coating of cement and pressing onto said cemented surface a substantially non-stretchable flexible reinforcing fabric covering all of the pelts and the stitching whereby each and every part of the stretched pelts is firmly joined to the reinforcing fabric and the fur bearing sheet thereby reinforced and held against shrinking.

In testimony whereof I aiiix my signature.

'HYME WASSERMAN. 

